Kamikochi Travel Guide:
Access, Highlights, Walking Courses and Where to Stay

Kamikochi in brief: Kamikochi is a mountain valley in Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture, at about 1,500 m above sea level. The clear Azusa River, the wooden Kappabashi suspension bridge, and the jagged Hotaka mountain range behind it make it one of the most photographed places in the Japan Alps. Private cars are not allowed in, so everyone arrives by bus or taxi, which is part of what keeps the valley so quiet.

This guide is written by Misuzuso, a hot spring inn in Norikura Kogen at about 1,400 m. We are about 15 minutes by car from the Sawando shuttle bus stop, and many travelers use Norikura Kogen as a base for Kamikochi. The practical information below, such as bus fares, taxi fares, walking distances and rules, is based on the official Kamikochi website and the Alpico Kotsu bus company.

The name, the history, and Walter Weston

The name "Kamikochi" is said to derive from "Kamikouchi" (神河内), an old name for the area. The valley is the headwater of the Azusa River and has long been a place of mountain worship. Hotaka Shrine Okumiya, at Myojin Pond, is still regarded as the spiritual center of Kamikochi.

Kamikochi became widely known thanks to Walter Weston, an English missionary who climbed throughout the Japan Alps from the Meiji to the Taisho era and introduced them to the world. He is called the "father of modern Japanese mountaineering." A memorial relief of Weston stands near Kappabashi Bridge, and the Weston Festival is held every year in early June in his honor.

The landscape changed dramatically in 1915, when Mt. Yakedake erupted. The mudflow dammed the Azusa River and flooded the forest, creating Taisho Pond. The dead trees still standing in the water are a remnant of that eruption. Kamikochi was designated a special protection zone of Chubu-Sangaku National Park in 1934, and a Special Place of Scenic Beauty and Special Natural Monument in 1952.

A car-free valley

Kamikochi has been closed to private cars all year round since 1975. This was one of Japan's first nature-protection traffic restrictions, intended to protect the river and the quiet of the valley from exhaust fumes and noise. Private cars, rental cars, and motorcycles cannot go beyond the Kama Tunnel. Visitors park at Sawando (from the Matsumoto side) or Hirayu Akandana (from the Takayama side), and continue by shuttle bus or taxi.

All routes end at Kamikochi Bus Terminal. Choose the route that matches where you start.

From Tokyo, Nagoya and Osaka

From Tokyo (Shinjuku): The Azusa limited express reaches Matsumoto in about 2 hours 40 minutes (departures about once or twice an hour between 7:00 and 21:00). A highway bus from Shinjuku Bus Terminal takes about 3 hours 15 minutes. From Matsumoto, continue by train and bus or by the National Park Liner. There is also a direct bus service from Shinjuku to Kamikochi by the Sawayaka Shinshu-go operated by Alpico.

From Nagoya: The Shinano limited express reaches Matsumoto in about 2 hours 8 minutes. Alternatively, take the Hida limited express to Takayama (about 2 hours 40 minutes), then the bus to Hirayu and the shuttle to Kamikochi.

From Osaka / Kyoto: Take the Shinkansen to Nagoya (about 1 hour from Shin-Osaka) and continue as above. A single daily Hida limited express runs from Osaka to Takayama (about 4 hours 25 minutes).

Reserving the bus from Matsumoto

The Matsumoto/Shin-Shimashima to Kamikochi buses and the National Park Liner are "reservation-priority": reserved passengers board first, and others can board if seats are available. Reservations open at 00:00 on the same day one month before travel. In peak seasons, such as summer weekends and the October foliage season, reserve in advance. Buses between Sawando and Kamikochi (the shuttle) do not require reservations.

Shuttle bus fares from Sawando

The official Kamikochi website lists the Sawando to Kamikochi Bus Terminal shuttle at 1,600 yen one way or 3,000 yen round trip for adults, and 750 yen one way or 1,500 yen round trip for children. The bus also stops at Taisho Pond and in front of Kamikochi Imperial Hotel, so you can get off at Taisho Pond and walk toward Kappabashi. Fares are paid at the fare box or at the ticket counter. Only 1,000-yen notes can be changed on board, so have small bills ready.

Taxi fares

Fixed-fare taxis run from the Sawando parking areas. For a standard car (up to 6 passengers), the fare from the upper Sawando zone is about 4,200 yen to Taisho Pond, 5,100 yen to Kamikochi Imperial Hotel, and 5,400 yen to Kamikochi Bus Terminal (6,000 yen from the lower zone). For groups of 4 or more, the taxi fare per person can be comparable to or lower than the bus. The last taxi boards at 18:00. Sawando taxi dispatch: +81-263-93-3336; Kamikochi dispatch center: +81-263-95-2350. Fares from the Hirayu side are roughly 4,600 to 6,000 yen, plus the Abo Tunnel toll.

When you arrive at Kamikochi Bus Terminal

The terminal has public toilets, the Kamikochi Information Center (8:00 to 17:00; coin showers, baby carrier and wheelchair rental), the Kamikochi Tourist Center (restaurant, shops, luggage storage, bus ticket counter), a post office, and a clinic. Taxi stand is at platform 1, shuttle to Hirayu at platform 5, and shuttle to Sawando at platform 7. Kappabashi Bridge is a short walk from the terminal.

Kamikochi is a mountain resort at 1,500 m. In spring and autumn, temperatures swing widely between morning and daytime, and even in summer it can feel chilly when it is cloudy, rainy or windy. Layers that you can adjust, such as a quick-drying base layer, a long-sleeved shirt and a warm jacket, work best.

What to bring

• Spring and autumn: long-sleeved shirt, fleece, mountain parka or down jacket, long pants, gloves and a hat.
• Summer: T-shirt, long-sleeved shirt, windbreaker, shorts and a hat.
• Shoes: For walks between Taisho Pond and Yokoo, comfortable sneakers are fine. In rain or mud, waterproof trekking shoes are better.
• Rain gear: Mountain weather changes fast, so a rain jacket (or at least a folding umbrella) is essential.

In September, the high drops below 20°C and rowan and Erman's birch begin to color. Mornings and evenings can fall below 10°C, so bring a fleece and rain gear. Early to mid October is usually the peak of the autumn colors.

Checklist

• Rain jacket and pants (separate pieces are best)
• Warm layer (fleece or light down) for cold mornings and evenings
• Comfortable walking shoes (waterproof if possible)
• Hat for sun and rain
• Drinks and snacks (there are shops, but fewer the farther you walk)
• A trash bag, because there are no trash cans and you must carry your trash out
• Some cash in small bills for buses and small shops

If you plan to climb beyond Kamikochi, such as Yarigatake or Hotakadake, helmets are recommended on some routes. Check the latest mountain information before you go.

To protect Kamikochi's nature, visitors are asked to follow five basic rules (plus two more):

• No collecting: do not take plants or animals, including insects.
• No feeding: do not feed wild animals.
• No littering: take all your trash with you. There are no trash cans on the trails.
• No bringing in: do not bring pets or non-native species.
• No stepping off the path: stay on the walkways.
• No bicycle riding on the trails.
• No drones: unmanned aircraft are prohibited in the national park.

Smoking while walking is also discouraged. Please be considerate when taking photos by sharing popular viewpoints and not blocking the path. Japanese macaques and Asian black bears live in the area: keep your food sealed, do not approach wild animals, and never feed them.